2011 Electrical fault gremlins

Body: CT471 Body Builder Book. Remote Engine Speed Control Module (RESCM). ServiceMaxx: Electronic Service Tools for International CV: Training: Diamond Logic. (6698) USED INTERNATIONAL ABS MODULE (OEM# 3609071C1) BENDIX# MIO120365815 Call the following number for the part. 2011 INTERNATIONAL Other (Stock #22219). Drag me to your location. The Body Control Module (BCM) is the central organizational element of your car that controls other security systems of the vehicle. The main fuse box, also known as the power distribution module, or PDM, is located under the hood onthe left front fender just forward of the bulkhead module.Mazda Tribute ( – ) – fuse box diagram. Year of production:, Passenger compartment fuse panel. The fuse panel is located below and to. Check a/c light was on in dash. Pulled code SPN: 612 FMI:14 Byte7: 2 OCC:1 BCRCDTemp in cond signal (Analog Channel 29 Ainiz) is out of range high probable cause open circuit. Called the international tech support, gentlenmen advise me to update body module he said current version is 176.

07-29-2017, (Subject: 2011 Electrical fault gremlins )

2011 Electrical fault gremlins

So I've got a 2011 ProStar and I've had it for about a year and a half. I purchased it with 450,000 miles on it and it's turned just over 600,000. It seems like I'm chasing one problem after another and as of late they are stacking up faster than I can afford to properly repair. There of been lots of little things like exhaust manifold bolts breaking off in the cylinder head which aren't complicated but a hassle to fix or the AC compressor failing for odd reasons. Not just the typical things like bad thermistors but weird ones like bearing failure on the compressor or a faulty compressor from Napa that sent debris through the system when it failed. I've actually got a laundry list of things I've had to do to the truck to keep things going but this one is just frustrating the heck out of me. There is also a small laundry list of issues with the truck that I can focus on later on but this one definitely would put me out of service if I tried to drive and a DOT officer took notice.
Recently I drove into some rain and every single one of my gauges started acting up and the low air pressure buzzer started going off because those gauges dropped to zero. Mechanically the truck ran fine and I still had turn signals, headlights, wipers, horn. To finish out my day I downloaded a Speedometer app. Once the rain quit and of the truck dried out everything went back to normal. The next day I drove into a light rain and it started doing it again except this time only about half the gauges failed. This time around after it dried out only the spa diameter, tachometer, oil temperature, water temperature, and oil pressure recovered. I disconnected the battery cables for about 30 minutes at the end of the day and nothing changed.
I had my wife take a quick video to show what it started doing shortly after we drove into the rain for the first time. Hopefully the link I will try to post works.
I know there is a body control module behind a kick panel by the clutch. I took the time to inspect it and all the pin connectors and of the harness and nothing appeared to be pulling out or shorting out or had moisture.
I went through all the bulkhead connectors at the firewall and was searching for signs of moisture infiltration. I wish I would've found an issue but I haven't yet so I cleaned and regreased with dielectric grease and reassembled all of them.
I don't know if the BCM is been damaged by a short somewhere in the wiring that I have yet to find. I would hate to just replace it without finding the root cause of the problem but I need to do something since I have compromised gauges with no engine brake, Cruise control, or interior lights that aren't on a switch.
Suggestions please and thank you very much for your input
Carlos Martinez (317)-414-3374
New owner op currently leased with HubGroup Trucking out of Indianapolis

07-29-2017, (Subject: 2011 Electrical fault gremlins )

RE: 2011 Electrical fault gremlins

Just went through a bunch of electrical issues on a Prostar. Make sure the big red wire from the 100 amp fuse area is in good condition and tight on both ends. International says the test for good ground on the BCM is to open the door and see of the dome lights come on. Lights on = good ground according to their manual. My experience is that it (BCM) is grounded even when unbolted from the truck body, so that means it would ground through various plugs. Find those grounds and make sure they are tight and not subject to water penetration. There are a lot of interior cab grounds behind/under the dash pretty much straight ahead from the headlight switch. More on the outside of the firewall at the same location. I don't recall what each 100 amp fuse (located on the outside firewall by the grounds) go to, but when one of mine was bad either the horn blew all the time or the wipers ran as soon as the key way on and the truck brake lights were always on. Those fuses look OK even with they blow, though I would suspect from your description that yours are OK but would still check the connections. There have been some cases of water leaking in on the BCM--my truck occasionally leaks from somewhere near where the visor bolts on which can't be good for a lot of things including the BCM. As I understand it, the BCM drives the IC (instrument cluster) and if you are loosing all your gauges including air pressure that points to a BCM issue and/or wiring between the BCM and IC. If you are only losing engine/speed information that could also point to data link from the engine which goes through the BCM before it goes to the IC. Sort of a ramble here, but work on all those wires right inside and outside the firewall directly above and ahead of the BCM.

07-29-2017, (Subject: 2011 Electrical fault gremlins )

RE: 2011 Electrical fault gremlins

Midland is spot on. Also, get under your truck, start at the battery box.. Inspect every cable from the batteries to the starter, alternator, grounds, etc. I about shi#t my pants when I looked under mine when I was having electrical issues.. The cabling to my starter had ten inches of bare copper from the connection at the starter back. I found missing jacket and bare copper on EVERY cable on my truck! I replaced roughly 100 feet of O to 4 ga cabling. This was FACTORY OEM cable.
Some of the issues with the AC compressor.. Cummins recommends replacing the Damper every 500,000 miles, they do wear out. I had issues like you described on my accessories, I replaced the Damper and those issues went away. Another benefit, the motor ran much smoother, I could literally feel the difference in the seat of my pants.
Also, if you are having vibration issues, you may want to change out the cam shaft and crankshaft sensors. If you have an Inline reader with Insite, if they are going bad you should see a code. I had a God awful driveline vibration that came out of nowhere, and discovered I had 5 pings on my camshaft sensor. I replaced that sensor, driveline vibration went away. Just a thought, and hope it helps.

Thanks given by:

Sergiu

07-31-2017, (Subject: 2011 Electrical fault gremlins )

RE: 2011 Electrical fault gremlins

I have seen a few prostars where the gauge cluster freaks out.
* First of all, replace ALL of the tiny little red fuses in the far left of the fuse panel. They don't go bad but the blades all tarnish after a year or 2 and create just those types of issues. I think mine were 5-amp each, and I replaed them all with 10-amp fuses. I mention this in detail here..
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t..1#pid12861
* Next is the fact that prostars are very very notorious for leaks at the joint where the top dome meets the cab. That groove just above the doors that runs all the way around the cab. Everyone swears they do not leak from there but they al

International Body Control Module Location